Chizarira

Chizarira, although one of Zimbabwe's larger and most beautiful National Parks, is also one of the least known. It lies on the Sijarira Horst, approximately 50km east of Binga.

Chizarira does not generally have the huge and very visible concentrations of animals for which parks such as Hwange or Mana Pools are famous, largely because permanent water is well scattered throughout the park. It does have enough wildlife to sustain interest, but its strong points are scenery, variety, and that elusive attribute known as 'wilderness quality'.

On rhe park's northern boundary, high ridges of hills are cut by deep, near-sheer gorges through which rivers flow to Lake Kariba. The views from the adjacent hills are spectacular, whether looking out across the Zambezi Valley and Lake Kariba, south across the park itself, or into the dark depths of the gorges. Meanwhile, at the park's northeastern tip, lies Tundazi, the sacred mountain which, according to local legend, is inhabited by a huge serpent. In the low-lying south, on the Busi River, acacia floodplains are flanked by mopane and lowveld scrub.

Lovers of wilderness and solitude will find Chizarira entrancing. There are few visitors; no tarred roads; and no accommodation other than basic campsites, some with amazing views across the Zambezi Valley to Lake Kariba.

Chizarira was once a black rhino stronghold. Sadly, there are now none left within the Park. Most were poached out during the 1980's and early 1990s and Dick Pitman, ZIM4x4's tour leader, remembers flying the Super Cub 'spotter aircraft' on an exercise to relocate the survivors to Intensive Protection Zones such as the Matusadona National Park.

How to get there
The main access is from the Binga-Karoi gravel road, which runs a few kilometres north of the park. From the turnoff, a 20km access track runs up through one of the shallower escarpment gorges to Manzituba, the park HQ.

Chizarira can be visited as an out-and-return from the Binga and Hwange areas, but there's some badly-maintained gravel along the way and it's better to consider Chizarira as a 'side trip' on a longer run along the length of the Binga-Karoi road, which also offers the chance to detour into Matusadona as well. Once at Karoi, the way to Mana Pools lies open.

Note, however, that there is no source of fuel between Binga and Karoi, and even those may not be 100% reliable. Range is important.

Vehicles
Any reliable 4x4 or sturdy 4x2 bakkie should be fine, but the latter may not be able to access some of the remoter parts of the park. The main requirement, as noted above, is reasonable range, plus self-sufficiency. Provisions can be bought in centres such as Hwange, Binga or Karoi.

Where to stay
There are several isolated campsites near Manzituba, some with basic basha shelters and toilet blocks. There is also an attractive self-catering lodge on the park access road - Chizarira Lodge - that provides self-catering facilities.

Conservation issues
Chizarira - and its south-easterly neighboure, the Chirisa Safari Area - is really where the elephant culling issue got under way. Some of its woodlands suffered severe elephant damage when Lake Kariba filled. This, allied to the construction of tsetse fences to the south, 'compressed' elephant populations into a much smaller area than before, resulting in heavy pressure on woodlands.

The management of wildlife populations - whether through culling or in other forms - is still a hot topic, and guarantees a lively discussion round the evening's camp fire.

When to visit
It's possible to reach the park HQ during the rains - and the area is very lovely at that time - but most will probably prefer the drier months, from April to November.